Step-by-step

1. 1

   Heat the screen edges

   3 min

   Use a heat gun around the perimeter of the iPad Mini to soften the adhesive beneath the glass screen. Keep the nozzle moving constantly to avoid scorching the display panel.

2. 2

   Attach the suction cup

   1 min

   Place a suction cup onto the glass near the top edge of the screen. Firmly pull upward on the ring to create a slight gap between the glass and frame.

3. 3

   Slice front panel adhesive

   4 min

   Insert a plastic opening pick into the gap and slide it along the perimeter to slice through adhesive. Avoid inserting the pick too deeply near the lower right edge where the ribbon cable sits.

4. 4

   Open the glass cover

   2 min

   Gently swing the front glass panel open toward the right side like a book cover. Do not strain the delicate digitizer flex cables at the bottom edge.

5. 5

   Unscrew the LCD corners

   2 min

   Remove the four Phillips #00 screws located at each corner of the LCD frame. Store these screws safely, as they are exceptionally small.

6. 6

   Fold down the LCD

   2 min

   Use a spudger to pry up the top edge of the LCD display panel. Carefully flip the LCD down to rest flat over the opened front glass.

7. 7

   Remove the metal shield screws

   5 min

   Remove the sixteen Phillips #00 screws securing the large aluminum EMI shield to the iPad frame. Keep track of each screw's location as lengths vary.

8. 8

   Lift out the EMI shield

   1 min

   Pry gently along the edges of the metal shield with a spudger to break it free from thermal pads underneath. Lift the shield out of the device.

9. 9

   Detach the display bracket

   2 min

   Remove the three Phillips screws securing the bracket over the display and digitizer connectors. Lift the bracket out using tweezers.

10. 10

    Disconnect the LCD cable

    2 min

    Pry the LCD flex cable connector straight up off the logic board using the flat edge of a spudger. Lift the LCD panel out and set it aside.

11. 11

    Disconnect the digitizer cable

    2 min

    Disconnect the digitizer ribbon connector from its socket on the logic board. Completely remove the front glass assembly.

12. 12

    Unscrew lower board fasteners

    3 min

    Unscrew the retaining screws holding the charging port assembly and the bottom section of the logic board into the aluminum frame.

13. 13

    Lift the logic board base

    3 min

    Carefully pry the bottom section of the logic board upward to expose the soldered Lightning port flex cable joints underneath.

14. 14

    Apply flux to solder joints

    2 min

    Dispense liquid flux over the row of soldered connection pins joining the port flex cable to the logic board. The flux ensures smooth heat transfer during desoldering.

15. 15

    Desolder the port flex cable

    6 min

    Place desoldering braid over the solder joints and press down with a hot soldering iron tip. Melt and pull away the old solder until the flex cable lifts off clean.

16. 16

    Clean the board pads

    2 min

    Wipe the bare copper contacts on the logic board with a lint-free swab dampened in 99% isopropyl alcohol. Remove all leftover flux residue.

17. 17

    Tin the new solder pads

    3 min

    Apply a tiny amount of fresh solder to each logic board contact pad using the tip of your soldering iron. Create small, uniform solder beads on every pad.

18. 18

    Position the replacement port

    3 min

    Align the replacement Lightning port flex cable pads directly on top of the tinned logic board contacts. Hold the cable steady with tweezers.

19. 19

    Solder the flex cable

    5 min

    Touch each pin pad briefly with the soldering iron to reflow the solder underneath. Ensure every pin forms a solid, shiny metallic bond without bridging adjacent pads.

20. 20

    Secure the charging port

    3 min

    Seat the new Lightning port housing firmly into its bottom slot on the rear case. Reinstall and tighten the mounting screws securely.