Step-by-step

1. 1

   Power down the iPad

   1 min

   Press and hold the top power button, then slide the power icon to turn off the device completely. If the screen is unresponsive, press and hold the power and home buttons together to force a shutdown.

2. 2

   Heat the front glass edges

   3 min

   Apply a heated iOpener or heat gun around the outer bezel for two minutes to soften the perimeter adhesive. Keep the heat source moving to avoid overheating the display panel.

3. 3

   Attach a suction cup

   2 min

   Place a suction cup near the top edge of the screen, opposite the home button. Pull up gently to create a small gap between the glass frame and the aluminum enclosure.

4. 4

   Slice through the perimeter adhesive

   5 min

   Insert a plastic opening pick into the gap and slide it slowly along the top and side edges. Avoid inserting the pick deeper than 3 mm on the bottom right edge to protect the digitizer flex cables.

5. 5

   Open the digitizer assembly

   2 min

   Gently swing open the glass digitizer from the left side like a book cover. Prop the glass up against a stable object so it does not strain the lower ribbon cables.

6. 6

   Unscrew the LCD display

   3 min

   Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the four corner screws securing the LCD to the aluminum frame. Note that the top screws are slightly longer than the bottom ones.

7. 7

   Lift the LCD panel

   2 min

   Insert a spudger under the top edge of the LCD panel and tilt it upward toward the bottom edge. Lay the LCD flat on top of the opened digitizer glass to expose the shield plate underneath.

8. 8

   Disconnect the battery power

   3 min

   Remove the single Phillips screw securing the battery contact to the logic board. Insert a plastic battery blocker or guitar pick under the contact to prevent power flow.

9. 9

   Remove the display cable shield

   2 min

   Unscrew the three Phillips screws holding the metal display connector bracket in place. Lift the bracket out using tweezers and set it aside.

10. 10

    Disconnect the display and digitizer cables

    3 min

    Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the LCD, digitizer, and home button press connectors straight up from the logic board. Separate the screen assembly from the enclosure.

11. 11

    Unscrew the logic board retaining screws

    4 min

    Remove all Phillips screws securing the logic board, lightning connector, and button board to the aluminum casing. Keep these screws organized by location.

12. 12

    Disconnect remaining internal ribbon cables

    3 min

    Use a spudger to disconnect the headphone jack, speaker, front camera, and antenna cables from the logic board. Take care not to damage the delicate board-side sockets.

13. 13

    Extract the logic board

    5 min

    Apply light heat to the rear of the casing, then pry underneath the logic board with a plastic spudger to release the light adhesive. Carefully lift the logic board out.

14. 14

    Scrub corrosion with isopropyl alcohol

    10 min

    Inspect the logic board under a magnifying glass for white or green oxidation marks. Gently scrub affected areas and components using 99% isopropyl alcohol and a soft nylon brush.

15. 15

    Dry all treated components

    15 min

    Wipe away dislodged debris with a lint-free microfiber cloth and allow the logic board to air dry completely for at least 15 minutes. Ensure no solvent trapped beneath metal EMI shields remains.

16. 16

    Reinstall logic board and test device

    10 min

    Place the dried logic board back into the chassis and reconnect all flex cables. Reconnect the screen temporarily, remove the battery blocker, and power on to verify successful repair before re-sealing.