Step-by-step

1. 1

   Heat the Outer Glass Edges

   3 min

   Apply heat evenly around the outer frame using a heat gun for two to three minutes to soften the glass adhesive.

2. 2

   Attach a Suction Cup

   2 min

   Place a suction cup near the top edge of the screen and pull upward gently to create a slight gap between the glass and metal frame.

3. 3

   Insert an Opening Pick

   2 min

   Insert a guitar pick into the gap under the glass. Do not slide the pick deeper than three millimeters to avoid damaging internal flex cables.

4. 4

   Slice Through Perimeter Adhesive

   4 min

   Slide the pick along the top and left edges of the iPad to slice through the adhesive seal.

5. 5

   Avoid the Wi-Fi Antenna

   3 min

   Carefully slice the bottom edge near the home button, keeping the pick extremely shallow around the bottom right corner where the Wi-Fi antenna rests.

6. 6

   Open the Glass Digitizer

   2 min

   Gently hinge the glass digitizer open from the left side like a book, taking care not to strain the digitizer cables on the bottom left.

7. 7

   Remove LCD Corner Screws

   3 min

   Use a Phillips #00 screwdriver to remove the four corner screws securing the LCD display panel to the aluminum casing.

8. 8

   Lift the LCD Assembly

   2 min

   Insert a plastic prying tool under the top edge of the LCD panel and gently swing it forward toward the glass cover.

9. 9

   Disconnect the LCD Cable

   2 min

   Flip up the small retaining latch on the LCD flex ZIF connector, then slide the display cable gently out of its socket.

10. 10

    Disconnect the Digitizer Cable

    2 min

    Unlatch the two digitizer ZIF connectors on the logic board and slide out the ribbon cables to completely detach the front glass.

11. 11

    Isolate the Battery Power

    2 min

    Insert a plastic pick between the logic board and battery contact pad to prevent short circuits while working.

12. 12

    Unscrew Dock Port Bracket

    2 min

    Remove the two Phillips screws securing the 30-pin charging dock port frame to the bottom edge of the chassis.

13. 13

    Disconnect the Dock Flex Cable

    2 min

    Flip open the ZIF lock lever on the logic board holding the dock connector flex cable in place, then pull the ribbon out.

14. 14

    Peel Up the Old Dock Assembly

    3 min

    Pry up the dock connector and ribbon cable off the bottom chassis adhesive using a flat plastic opening tool.

15. 15

    Position New Dock Port

    2 min

    Insert the replacement 30-pin dock connector into the bottom frame slot and press the ribbon cable down flat.

16. 16

    Insert Dock Flex Cable

    2 min

    Slide the new dock ribbon cable straight into the logic board ZIF socket and press down the locking lever to lock it.

17. 17

    Fasten Dock Mounting Screws

    2 min

    Reinstall the two Phillips screws to firmly secure the new charging dock port inside the rear enclosure.

18. 18

    Reconnect Digitizer Ribbons

    2 min

    Slide the two digitizer flex cables into their logic board sockets and flip down the locking latches.

19. 19

    Reconnect LCD Display Cable

    2 min

    Insert the LCD ribbon cable back into its logic board socket and lock the retaining clip.

20. 20

    Secure the LCD Assembly

    3 min

    Remove the battery pick, lower the LCD screen into the metal frame, and replace the four corner Phillips screws.

21. 21

    Apply Fresh Frame Adhesive

    4 min

    Clean remaining old glue with isopropyl alcohol and lay down pre-cut adhesive strips along the inner frame perimeter.

22. 22

    Seal the Front Digitizer

    3 min

    Align the front glass over the casing and lower it down, pressing firmly along all four edges to set the fresh adhesive.