Step-by-step

1. 1

   Heat the Glass Edges

   3 min

   Use a heat gun around the outer perimeter of the screen for two minutes to soften the adhesive beneath the glass.

2. 2

   Attach a Suction Cup

   2 min

   Place a suction cup near the top edge of the front glass and pull upward firmly to create a tiny gap.

3. 3

   Insert an Opening Pick

   2 min

   Slide a plastic opening pick under the top edge of the glass into the gap created by the suction cup.

4. 4

   Slice the Top Adhesive

   3 min

   Slide the pick along the top edge of the iPad glass, being careful around the camera assembly.

5. 5

   Slice the Right Edge Adhesive

   4 min

   Work the pick down the right edge to slice through the adhesive, taking care near the bottom right to avoid the Wi-Fi antenna.

6. 6

   Slice the Bottom Edge Adhesive

   3 min

   Move the pick along the bottom edge with shallow depth so you do not damage the home button flex cable.

7. 7

   Slice the Left Edge Adhesive

   3 min

   Carefully cut along the left edge, stopping before the lower-left corner to protect the digitizer cable.

8. 8

   Open the Front Glass

   2 min

   Gently lift the right side of the glass panel open like a book page, keeping the left edge close to the body.

9. 9

   Unscrew the LCD Display

   3 min

   Remove the four Phillips #00 screws securing the corners of the LCD panel to the frame.

10. 10

    Pry Up the LCD Panel

    2 min

    Use a plastic opening tool to lift the top edge of the LCD up and hinge it toward the bottom of the device.

11. 11

    Disconnect the LCD Cable

    2 min

    Flip open the ZIF connector lock flap on the display port and slide the LCD flex cable out.

12. 12

    Remove the LCD

    1 min

    Lift the LCD panel off the iPad frame and place it onto a clean, soft surface.

13. 13

    Unclatch the Digitizer Connectors

    2 min

    Flip up the two retaining latches on the digitizer ZIF sockets located on the logic board.

14. 14

    Remove the Front Glass Assembly

    1 min

    Slide the digitizer flex cables out of their sockets and set the glass assembly safely aside.

15. 15

    Isolate the Battery

    2 min

    Insert a plastic guitar pick between the logic board battery contact screw and the board to cut power.

16. 16

    Unscrew the Dock Connector Brackets

    2 min

    Remove the two Phillips #00 screws securing the dock connector port to the aluminum casing.

17. 17

    Disconnect the Dock Flex Cable

    2 min

    Flip up the lock flap on the dock connector ZIF socket and gently pull the flex cable free.

18. 18

    Peel Up the Dock Flex Cable

    3 min

    Use a plastic spudger to pry the dock flex cable up from the adhesive on the aluminum frame.

19. 19

    Remove the Defective Dock Port

    1 min

    Lift the old dock connector hardware out of the lower recess of the rear casing.

20. 20

    Position the New Dock Port

    2 min

    Insert the replacement dock connector into the bottom frame slot, aligning its mounting holes.

21. 21

    Secure the Dock Port Screws

    2 min

    Reinstall the two Phillips #00 screws to hold the dock connector firmly against the casing.

22. 22

    Connect the Dock Flex Cable

    2 min

    Slide the new flex cable into the logic board ZIF socket and snap the locking flap closed.

23. 23

    Reconnect Display and Digitizer

    4 min

    Reattach the digitizer and LCD flex cables back into their respective board connectors and lock them.

24. 24

    Reseal and Close the Glass

    5 min

    Reinstall the LCD screws, remove battery isolation, apply fresh adhesive strips, and press the front glass back onto the frame.