Step-by-step

1. 1

   Power off device

   1 min

   Ensure the iPad 2 is completely shut down before starting the repair. Unplug any attached cables.

2. 2

   Heat front glass edges

   3 min

   Use a heat gun on low setting to warm the outer perimeter of the glass screen for 2 to 3 minutes. This softens the factory adhesive holding the display panel.

3. 3

   Attach suction cup

   1 min

   Place a suction cup on the upper left corner of the screen near the bezel edge. Press down firmly to form a tight seal against the glass.

4. 4

   Insert opening pick

   2 min

   Pull up on the suction cup handle to create a tiny gap between the glass and aluminum frame. Insert a thin guitar pick into the gap.

5. 5

   Slice screen adhesive

   5 min

   Slide plastic opening picks around the top, left, and right edges to cut through adhesive. Avoid inserting the pick deeply at the lower-right corner to protect the Wi-Fi antenna.

6. 6

   Open digitizer glass

   2 min

   Swing the top edge of the glass assembly up and away from the body like opening a book. Keep the bottom edge resting near the frame.

7. 7

   Remove LCD screws

   3 min

   Locate and remove the four Phillips #00 screws securing the corners of the inner LCD display frame.

8. 8

   Flip LCD panel

   2 min

   Gently lift the top edge of the LCD panel and pivot it toward the bottom home button. Rest the LCD face down over the opened glass assembly.

9. 9

   Disconnect LCD cable

   2 min

   Use a plastic spudger to flip up the retaining latch on the LCD ZIF connector. Slide the LCD ribbon cable straight out from its socket.

10. 10

    Disconnect digitizer cable

    2 min

    Flip up the two locking tabs on the digitizer cable ZIF connectors on the logic board. Gently slide both flex cable ribbons out from their ports.

11. 11

    Remove display assembly

    1 min

    Lift the entire display and front glass assembly clear of the chassis. Set it aside on a clean, scratch-free surface.

12. 12

    Disconnect battery connection

    2 min

    Remove the single Phillips #00 screw securing the logic board contact to the battery. Insert a plastic guitar pick beneath the logic board pad to isolate power.

13. 13

    Unscrew dock connector bracket

    2 min

    Remove the two Phillips #00 screws holding the charging dock connector housing to the aluminum case.

14. 14

    Disconnect dock connector ribbon

    2 min

    Pry open the locking tab on the dock connector ribbon socket on the logic board. Pull the ribbon cable out horizontally.

15. 15

    Remove original dock connector

    3 min

    Peel the flex ribbon cable up from the adhesive on the rear case floor. Pull the dock port bracket out from its bezel slot.

16. 16

    Insert replacement dock connector

    3 min

    Slide the replacement dock port bracket into the slot in the bottom frame edge. Press the flex cable flat against the aluminum interior.

17. 17

    Connect dock connector ribbon

    2 min

    Insert the replacement flex cable fully into the logic board ZIF socket. Flip the locking tab down flat to secure the connection.

18. 18

    Secure dock connector screws

    2 min

    Reinstall the two Phillips #00 screws to lock the dock port firmly against the frame.

19. 19

    Reconnect display and digitizer

    5 min

    Slide the digitizer and LCD ribbons back into their respective sockets and close all locking levers. Reinstall the four LCD screws.

20. 20

    Seal front glass

    4 min

    Apply new pre-cut adhesive strips along the frame perimeter. Lower the glass panel into position and press firmly around all edges.