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Motorola G Stylus 4G Charging Port Repair

Charging Port Repair guide for the Motorola G Stylus 4G

Moderate
~35 min
26 steps

Before you begin

Tools

  • Phillips #00 screwdriver
  • Heat gun or iOpener
  • Suction cup
  • Opening picks
  • Spudger
  • Tweezers
  • SIM eject tool

Parts / materials

  • Replacement Motorola G Stylus 4G charging port daughterboard
  • Pre-cut back cover adhesive strips
  • Isopropyl alcohol (90%+)

Safety

  • Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes when applying heat near glass or plastic panels.
  • Disconnect the battery press connector before performing repairs on electronic sub-boards.
  • Avoid bending or puncturing the lithium-ion battery with sharp metal tools.

Overview

# Motorola G Stylus 4G Charging Port Repair Repair Guide Action-specific charging port repair walkthrough for the Motorola G Stylus 4G. About 35 minutes across 26 steps. This DIY guide walks through charging port repair on the Motorola G Stylus 4G (Moto G series phone). Before you open the device, confirm the exact model number on the Motorola settings screen or rear housing so your replacement part matches the G Stylus 4G specifically—not a similar Moto G sibling. Most DIY techs finish this Motorola G Stylus 4G charging port repair in about 35 minutes when parts and tools are ready. Difficulty is rated intermediate for this model. Recommended tools for this Motorola G Stylus 4G job: Phillips #00 screwdriver, Heat gun or iOpener, Suction cup, Opening picks, Spudger, Tweezers, SIM eject tool. Parts and supplies: Replacement Motorola G Stylus 4G charging port daughterboard, Pre-cut back cover adhesive strips, Isopropyl alcohol (90%+). Power the G Stylus 4G off completely, remove SIMs/SD cards if present, and work on a clean, well-lit surface with a magnetic mat for screws. If a step feels wrong for your Motorola G Stylus 4G, stop and compare the connector layout to the photos in this guide. When you prefer a same-day pro repair in Seattle instead, LML Repair can handle charging port repair for this model with tested parts and a workmanship warranty.

Step-by-step

  1. 1

    Eject the SIM tray

    1 min

    Insert a SIM eject tool into the hole next to the SIM tray on the side edge. Push firmly to pop the tray out, then remove it completely.

  2. 2

    Heat the rear panel

    2 min

    Use a heat gun or heated iOpener along the rear edges of the phone for two minutes to soften the adhesive. Keep the heat moving continuously to avoid scorching the plastic.

  3. 3

    Attach a suction cup

    1 min

    Press a suction cup onto the lower portion of the rear panel near the bottom edge. Pull up gently on the suction cup handle to create a slight gap between the cover and the frame.

  4. 4

    Insert an opening pick

    1 min

    Insert the tip of an opening pick into the gap created under the bottom edge of the back panel. Do not insert the pick deeper than 3 mm to avoid damaging internal components.

  5. 5

    Slice the perimeter adhesive

    3 min

    Slide the opening pick around all four edges of the back cover to cut through the perimeter adhesive. Reapply heat if you feel strong resistance.

  6. 6

    Lift the rear cover

    1 min

    Gently hinge the rear cover open from the right side like a book. Do not pull the cover completely off yet, as the fingerprint sensor cable is still connected.

  7. 7

    Disconnect the fingerprint flex

    1 min

    Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the fingerprint sensor cable connector straight up from its motherboard socket. Set the back cover aside.

  8. 8

    Remove the motherboard bracket screws

    2 min

    Use a Phillips #00 screwdriver to remove the screws securing the top motherboard bracket. Keep track of each screw position for reassembly.

  9. 9

    Pry off the motherboard bracket

    1 min

    Insert a spudger under the edge of the plastic motherboard shield and gently pry it off the housing. Set the bracket aside.

  10. 10

    Disconnect the battery cable

    1 min

    Use a plastic spudger to pop the battery press connector straight off the motherboard socket. Disconnecting the battery prevents electrical damage during the repair.

  11. 11

    Remove the loudspeaker screws

    2 min

    Unscrew the Phillips #00 screws holding the bottom loudspeaker module to the phone frame. Place the screws in a secure tray.

  12. 12

    Remove the loudspeaker assembly

    1 min

    Insert a spudger beneath the notch on the loudspeaker module and lever it up from the frame. Remove the speaker to expose the daughterboard.

  13. 13

    Disconnect the main interconnect cable

    1 min

    Use the edge of a spudger to pry the lower end of the main flex cable straight off the daughterboard socket.

  14. 14

    Disconnect the coaxial antenna cable

    1 min

    Use fine tweezers to gently lift the white coaxial antenna cable head off its snap connector on the daughterboard. Pull straight up to avoid twisting the connector.

  15. 15

    Remove the daughterboard retaining screw

    1 min

    Remove the single Phillips #00 screw anchoring the daughterboard to the bottom chassis. Put this small screw in a safe spot.

  16. 16

    Pry out the old daughterboard

    1 min

    Insert a flat spudger under the edge of the daughterboard and pry it up from the phone frame. Discard the damaged board.

  17. 17

    Position the new daughterboard

    1 min

    Lower the replacement charging port board into its recess at the bottom of the frame. Align the USB-C port snugly with the outer frame opening.

  18. 18

    Secure the daughterboard screw

    1 min

    Reinstall the single Phillips #00 screw into the daughterboard to secure it to the chassis. Tighten until snug.

  19. 19

    Reconnect the coaxial antenna cable

    1 min

    Align the antenna head over its motherboard terminal on the new daughterboard using tweezers. Press down firmly with a spudger until it snaps into place.

  20. 20

    Reconnect the interconnect flex cable

    1 min

    Align the bottom connector of the interconnect cable with the daughterboard socket and press down until it clicks securely.

  21. 21

    Reinstall the loudspeaker assembly

    2 min

    Position the loudspeaker housing back over the bottom sub-board. Replace and tighten all lower Phillips screws.

  22. 22

    Reconnect the battery press connector

    1 min

    Align the battery press connector over its motherboard terminal and push straight down until it snaps into position.

  23. 23

    Reattach the motherboard bracket

    2 min

    Place the top plastic motherboard shield back onto the upper frame. Drive in all saved Phillips screws until snug.

  24. 24

    Reconnect the fingerprint sensor

    1 min

    Hold the back cover near the phone body and press the fingerprint flex cable connector straight onto its motherboard socket.

  25. 25

    Apply new back cover adhesive

    2 min

    Clean remaining old adhesive off the frame using isopropyl alcohol, then line the perimeter with pre-cut adhesive strips.

  26. 26

    Seal the rear cover

    2 min

    Align the rear cover precisely with the phone body and press firmly along all four edges to set the new adhesive.

After your Motorola G Stylus 4G charging port repair

Power the G Stylus 4G back on and test the charging port repair function before you put every screw away. Check touch/display response, charging, cameras, buttons, and wireless as relevant to this repair. If something fails after closing the device, reopen carefully and reseat the connectors for this Motorola G Stylus 4G job before assuming the part is defective. Keep leftover adhesive and screws labeled in case you need a second pass.

Keep learning

Explore more Motorola G Stylus 4G repair context in the encyclopedia, or open related DIY guides.

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