Console · Nintendo · Switch OLED
Nintendo Switch OLED Power Supply Repair
Power Supply Repair guide for the Nintendo Switch OLED
Before you begin
Tools
- Tri-point Y00 screwdriver
- Phillips #00 screwdriver
- Plastic spudger
- Precision tweezers
- Plastic opening picks
- Anti-static wrist strap
- Magnifying glass or headlamp
Parts / materials
- Replacement Switch OLED power board
- High-grade thermal paste
- 99% Isopropyl alcohol
- Lint-free microfiber cloth
Safety
- Disconnect the battery connector immediately after removing the shield plate to prevent short circuits.
- Wear an anti-static wrist strap to protect sensitive IC chips from ESD damage.
- Handle ribbon cables with care to avoid tearing delicate copper traces.
Overview
Step-by-step
- 1
Power down console and remove SD card
2 minTurn off the Nintendo Switch OLED completely. Open the kickstand and eject any inserted microSD card.
- 2
Remove rear tri-point Y00 screws
3 minUse a Y00 tri-point screwdriver to remove the four outer screws located on the back panel.
- 3
Remove top and bottom perimeter screws
3 minUse a Phillips #00 screwdriver to remove the single screw on the top edge and the two screws on the bottom edge.
- 4
Remove side rail screws
3 minRemove the center Phillips #00 screw from both the left and right Joy-Con slide rails.
- 5
Unscrew kickstand compartment fasteners
2 minFlip up the kickstand and use a Phillips #00 screwdriver to remove the two hidden screws beneath it.
- 6
Detach the back cover plate
2 minGently lift the rear plastic housing straight up off the console assembly and set it aside.
- 7
Unscrew the microSD card reader
2 minRemove the single Phillips #00 screw securing the microSD card reader daughterboard.
- 8
Disconnect the microSD card module
2 minUse a plastic spudger to pry the reader's press-connector straight up off the motherboard.
- 9
Remove metal shield plate screws
4 minRemove the six Phillips #00 screws securing the large aluminum thermal shield plate.
- 10
Lift and remove the metal shield plate
2 minCarefully pry up the aluminum shield plate, taking care around sticky thermal pads underneath.
- 11
Disconnect the battery cable
2 minInsert the edge of a plastic spudger under the battery connector and lift it straight up to cut power.
- 12
Unscrew the heatsink assembly
3 minRemove the three Phillips #00 screws holding the copper heatsink down onto the processor.
- 13
Remove copper heatsink
2 minGently pry up the copper heatsink from the APU and lift it clear of the console frame.
- 14
Clean old thermal paste
4 minClean remaining thermal compound off the heatsink and APU using isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free cloth.
- 15
Disconnect power board ribbon cables
3 minUse tweezers to open the ZIF lock levers and slide out the power circuit flex cables.
- 16
Unscrew the internal power board
3 minRemove the Phillips #00 screws anchoring the power delivery board to the chassis.
- 17
Remove faulty power board assembly
2 minUse opening picks or tweezers to gently lift the damaged power board out of the housing.
- 18
Seat new power supply board
3 minAlign the replacement power board into position inside the frame cutout.
- 19
Secure power board screws
3 minFasten the retaining Phillips #00 screws to firmly attach the new power board to the chassis.
- 20
Reconnect power flex cables
3 minSlide the flex ribbon cables into their ZIF connectors on the power board and snap the locking levers closed.
- 21
Apply fresh thermal paste
2 minPlace a small pea-sized dot of thermal paste onto the center of the APU die.
- 22
Reinstall heatsink and secure screws
3 minLower the copper heatsink back over the APU and re-tighten its three securing screws.
- 23
Reconnect the battery
2 minAlign the battery press connector over its socket on the motherboard and press down until it snaps.
- 24
Reattach metal shield plate and microSD board
5 minLay down the aluminum shield plate, install its screws, reconnect the microSD card reader, and fasten its screw.
- 25
Reinstall back cover and test
5 minReattach the rear plastic cover and replace all Y00 and Phillips outer screws before plugging in the charger to test.
After your Nintendo Switch OLED power supply repair
Power the Switch OLED back on and test the power supply repair function before you put every screw away. Check touch/display response, charging, cameras, buttons, and wireless as relevant to this repair. If something fails after closing the device, reopen carefully and reseat the connectors for this Nintendo Switch OLED job before assuming the part is defective. Keep leftover adhesive and screws labeled in case you need a second pass.
Keep learning
Explore more Nintendo Switch OLED repair context in the encyclopedia, or open related DIY guides.
