Console · Nintendo · 3DS
Nintendo 3DS Power Supply Repair
Power Supply Repair guide for the Nintendo 3DS
Before you begin
Tools
- Phillips #00 screwdriver
- Plastic spudger
- Plastic opening tools
- Precision tweezers
- Soldering iron
- Desoldering braid
Parts / materials
- Replacement Nintendo 3DS charging port
- Rosin core solder
- Soldering flux
- 99% Isopropyl alcohol
- Cotton swabs
Safety
- Always remove the battery before working on internal console hardware.
- Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from heat and flying solder flux splatter.
- Work in a well-ventilated area when using soldering equipment and solvents.
Overview
Step-by-step
- 1
Eject the stylus and SD card
1 minSlide the stylus out of its slot on the side of the console. Press inward on the SD card until it clicks, then pull it out.
- 2
Loosen the battery cover screws
2 minUse a Phillips #00 screwdriver to loosen the two captive screws on the rear battery cover. These screws will remain held inside the cover.
- 3
Remove the battery cover
2 minInsert a plastic opening tool into the pry notches near the top corners of the battery cover. Lift and detach the cover from the casing.
- 4
Remove the battery
1 minInsert a spudger beneath the bottom edge of the battery. Pry it upward to pop it out of the battery compartment.
- 5
Unscrew the lower case
3 minRemove the nine Phillips #00 screws securing the rear housing to the console frame. Note that two screws are located inside the battery compartment.
- 6
Pry open the lower case
3 minInsert a plastic opening tool into the seam along the edge of the lower housing. Carefully pry around the outer perimeter to release the internal plastic clips.
- 7
Lift the lower case carefully
2 minGently pivot the lower case open from the front edge. Do not pull it away completely yet, as shoulder button cables are still attached.
- 8
Disconnect the left shoulder cable
2 minUse tweezers to grasp the left shoulder button ribbon cable connector. Lift it straight up from its motherboard socket.
- 9
Disconnect the right shoulder cable
2 minUse tweezers to lift the right shoulder button ribbon cable connector straight up from its motherboard socket.
- 10
Remove the circle pad screws
2 minRemove the two Phillips #00 screws securing the circle pad module to the motherboard. Lift the circle pad module slightly off its post.
- 11
Disconnect the circle pad ribbon
2 minUse a spudger to flip up the thin black retaining latch on the circle pad ZIF connector. Slide the ribbon cable out of the socket.
- 12
Disconnect the Wi-Fi board
3 minPry the Wi-Fi board straight up off the motherboard using a plastic opening tool. Unclip the thin black antenna cable from the module using tweezers.
- 13
Unscrew the motherboard
3 minRemove the four Phillips #00 screws holding the motherboard assembly to the upper shell.
- 14
Disconnect display ribbon cables
4 minFlip up the retaining latches on the display and touchscreen ZIF connectors. Carefully slide both ribbon cables out of their motherboard sockets.
- 15
Lift out the motherboard
3 minGently lift the motherboard from the bottom edge and pivot it clear of the upper assembly. Ensure no remaining ribbon cables snag during removal.
- 16
Apply flux to port solder joints
2 minApply a small drop of soldering flux to the power jack ground anchor tabs and center power pins on the motherboard.
- 17
Desolder the charging port anchors
5 minPress desoldering braid against the ground anchor tabs using a hot soldering iron. Draw away all solder until the tabs are free from the pads.
- 18
Desolder power supply pins
4 minUse desoldering wick to clear solder from the power pins in the center of the charging port connector. Ensure all through-holes are free of old solder.
- 19
Remove the damaged charging port
2 minGrip the damaged power jack with tweezers and gently lift it off the motherboard. If any pin sticks, apply a brief touch of heat with the iron.
- 20
Clean the solder pads
2 minWipe the motherboard solder pads with a cotton swab dampened with 99% isopropyl alcohol. Remove all leftover flux residue and solder debris.
- 21
Position the replacement charging port
2 minAlign the pins of the replacement charging port with the motherboard through-holes. Press the port down flush against the board.
- 22
Solder the new charging port
5 minSolder the power pins and side anchor tabs to the motherboard using fresh solder. Ensure clean, shiny solder joints with no bridges between pins.
- 23
Reinstall the motherboard
4 minPlace the motherboard back into the housing upper frame. Align the display and touchscreen ribbon cables so they lay over their respective sockets.
- 24
Reconnect display and touch ribbons
3 minSlide the display and touchscreen ribbon cables firmly into their ZIF connectors. Flip the black locking latches down flat to lock them.
- 25
Reattach the circle pad module
3 minInsert the circle pad ribbon into its socket, clamp the latch, and tighten the two Phillips #00 screws.
- 26
Reconnect shoulder buttons and case
4 minSnap the left and right shoulder button ribbon cables into their sockets. Align the lower case onto the console and reinstall all nine casing screws.
- 27
Insert battery and test charging
3 minPlace the battery back into its compartment and screw down the rear cover. Connect an AC adapter to verify that the orange charge light illuminates.
After your Nintendo 3DS power supply repair
Power the 3DS back on and test the power supply repair function before you put every screw away. Check touch/display response, charging, cameras, buttons, and wireless as relevant to this repair. If something fails after closing the device, reopen carefully and reseat the connectors for this Nintendo 3DS job before assuming the part is defective. Keep leftover adhesive and screws labeled in case you need a second pass.
Keep learning
Explore more Nintendo 3DS repair context in the encyclopedia, or open related DIY guides.

